Part Two

Separates and casual wear

After receiving most complimentary remarks upon the first part of this guide, I thank you dear readers! It is now time to move on to more casual, daywear. As mentioned earlier in the guide, dependant upon the time of year, and England’s fickle weather, then a coat is always uppermost for a stroll around town, shopping, lunch, an evening at the pub, cinema, etc. Very adaptable according to the other clothes it is teamed with. I would suggest at least two coats if possible, for maximum variety. Of course, one must choose according to ones own taste and style, but one cannot go far wrong with a Crombie. Do not confuse the shoddy garment so beloved of skinheads/suedeheads as a Crombie. These were cheap imitations of the real thing, bought from high street outlets in the main, although some discerning chaps may well have had the real deal. Crombie, no connection to Abercrombie (and Fitch) is a Scottish cloth. Coats can be made by Crombie themselves at a retail price in excess of £500 at the present time, or made from Crombie cloth, and labelled as such, by other manufactures. In the sixties, Burton, Dunn and Co. etc all made a coat that bore the Crombie cloth label along with their own.



Nowadays, one does not see the Crombie label unless it is in a genuine Crombie garment. The style however, is much copied and very good quality coats can be obtained from such shops as Ted Baker, and even the venerable M & S who sell a very good wool and cashmere, made in Italy. The style, for those who need a reminder, is knee length, with a flap, or placket over the buttons, two pockets with perhaps a ticket pocket, one breast pocket and sometimes a velvet collar. The traditional lining for a Crombie is red silk. A Crombie is very similar to the ‘Covert Coat’ so named from the hunting background from which it came, The main distinction of the covet coat is four bands of stitching on the cuffs (no buttons) and around the bottom hem. This is to prevent fraying when negotiating bushes etc when out shooting. Colours are usually black for the Crombie, whereas the covert can be black, beige or camel, and grey. A smart Crombie (For simplicity I will refer to the covert as a Crombie also) can even be teamed with jeans, should one wish! Chino’s or cords being a more preferable choice. To cut a real daytime dash though’ I would suggest Brown brogues, chinos a bright waistcoat over a button-down shirt and a bright silk square in the breast pocket. I always like a carnation in the buttonhole as well! For evening, try a white shirt and tie under a dark waistcoat and dark trousers. Black brogues or Chelsea boots, loafers being a bit too lightweight for this look. A nice sweater or the now back in vogue cardigan, in a retro style looks good also for an even more casual look. I try to avoid labels as such but subtle ones are ok and Ralph Lauren do make very good Oxford cloth button-downs and chino’s, although if one can get Brooks Brothers then by all means do! Try and get a vintage ‘Tootal’ paisley or foulard scarf too. Very snazzy! A word or two about the cravat. Much maligned these days, but they can look really good under a button-down shirt! Apart from the Crombie, a really good tweed jacket is the business! Bespoke if one can, of course.


I am, at the moment looking at getting made a dark green one, with a ‘salt and pepper’ fleck to it. Again, with bespoke, one can let one’s personal taste run free, ticket pockets, a half belt at the back, shoulder vents, patch pockets with pleats, velvet collar, horn buttons, jazzy linings, all are within reach. A very good off-the-peg tweed can be purchased; I got one myself the other day. Be careful to find a manufacturer that has many years experience in such styles and materials. Brook Tavener are well established and recently had a road show in Leeds to ‘up’ the profile of the brand. You will find on visiting your tailor, that Brook Tavener deal in cloth also, and many of the swatches in the tailors will carry the Brook Tavener logo. With tweed, go for a Scottish tweed, without question. Brook T. know this, and their tweeds comes from Reid & Taylor of Scotland, amongst others. Of course, I am not advocating this style for everyday use, sometimes the sun does shine, and when it does, I can be found in a t-shirt like anyone else (although it will be a very nice one!)

A further word about customer service, something sadly lacking in the high street today. Too pushy staff or totally disinterested ones. Seek out a good, traditional ‘Gentlemen’s outfitters’ if one can! I found the tweed jacket in Clarksons of Petergate, York. Modestly titled “The shirt shop” it is a veritable emporium of gentlemen’s accoutrements. The service is second to none. Andrew, the owner appears at ones elbow with a friendly “can I help you sir?” rather like Jeeves! He will discuss and help through numerous trying-ons until you are satisfied, rather than palm you off with anything for a sale. Most helpful and most recommended!